Maintaining Marriage Seems To Be Tougher Than

I Didn't Think That Wave Was Going To Offer A Ton, ... But The Wave Just Held Form, And I Was Able To Get A Lot Out Of It.

There Are So Many Different Elements To Surfing. Small Waves, Big Waves, Long Boards, Short Boards. This Makes It A Sport You Can Share With People. It's Not Just A Solitary Thing - It's Become A Family Thing, Too. It's About Exercising And Passing Something On From Father To Son, And From Mother To Daughter.

Fatherhood Isn't Always A Planned Thing, But When It Happens You Just Do It. It's Very Natural And In That Sense It's Not Really Difficult.

For A Surfer, It's Never-ending. There's Always Some Wave You Want To Surf.

I Think When A Surfer Becomes A Surfer, It's Almost Like An Obligation To Be An Environmentalist At The Same Time.