I Didn't Think That Wave Was Going

A Wave Isn't Like A Skate Ramp Or Mountain; Everything's Moving Around, And You Have To Time How To Move Along With It. That's Easier With A Slow Wave.

It's Like The Mafia. Once You're In - Your In. There's No Getting Out.

The Joy Of Surfing Is So Many Things Combined, From The Physical Exertion Of It, To The Challenge Of It, To The Mental Side Of The Sport.

I Want To Surf Better Tomorrow. I Want To Surf Better In 10 Years. When I'm 50 I Want To Be A Better Surfer Than I Am Now - For Me It's A Lifelong Journey.

Well I'm Always Working On Constantly Everything. I Never Take The Approach That I'm Doing As Well As I Possibly Can... I Always Think There's More And I Think If You Don't Have That, You Are Not Driven To Be Better.