I Still Feel Like My Best Surfing

Surfing Is My Religion, If I Have One.

I Was Stuck For 16 Months Without A Win There, And Now I've Had Five This Year. Once You Break That Barrier For Yourself It Makes It Easier; You're Not Thinking About It... It Opened Up The Floodgate For Me.

The Joy Of Surfing Is So Many Things Combined, From The Physical Exertion Of It, To The Challenge Of It, To The Mental Side Of The Sport.

I Didn't Think That Wave Was Going To Offer A Ton, ... But The Wave Just Held Form, And I Was Able To Get A Lot Out Of It.

Not To Sound Too Deep Or Weird, But I Think That The Times When You Really Appreciate Surfing Are The Times You're Really Sort Of Becoming One With Nature. Surfing's As Raw Of A Sport As It Gets.