Surfing Is My Religion, If I Have

A Wave Isn't Like A Skate Ramp Or Mountain; Everything's Moving Around, And You Have To Time How To Move Along With It. That's Easier With A Slow Wave.

I Still Feel Like My Best Surfing Is Ahead Of Me.

Well I'm Always Working On Constantly Everything. I Never Take The Approach That I'm Doing As Well As I Possibly Can... I Always Think There's More And I Think If You Don't Have That, You Are Not Driven To Be Better.

It's Like The Mafia. Once You're In - Your In. There's No Getting Out.

Not To Sound Too Deep Or Weird, But I Think That The Times When You Really Appreciate Surfing Are The Times You're Really Sort Of Becoming One With Nature. Surfing's As Raw Of A Sport As It Gets.